
Having spent only a few days here it was certainly a shock for a westerner like me, culturally it was completely different to Europe, but one which meant I was always on guard. There are some experiences which are well engrained in my memory, such as our time at the rug market where mint tea was on offer while dozens of rugs were rolled out in presentation, only to find in the end that no offer was too little to complete a sale.
The history of Tangier is very rich due to the historical presence of many civilizations and cultures starting from the 5th century BC. Between the period of being a Phoenician town to the independence era around the 1950s, Tangier was a place and sometimes a refuge for many cultural diversities. However, it wasn't until 1923 that Tangier was attributed an international status by foreign colonial powers, thus becoming a destination for many.
Tangier is an ancient Berber and Phoenician town, founded by Carthaginian colonists in the early 5th century BC. According to Berber mythology, the town was built by Sufax, the son of Hercules. The cave of Hercules, a few miles from the city, is believed that Hercules slept there before attempting one of his twelve labours. Under Roman rule in the course of the 1st century BC. In the 5th century AD, Vandals conquered and occupied "Tingi" and from here swept across North Africa. A century later, between 534 and 682, Tangier fell back into Roman empire, before coming under Arab control in 702.
When the Portuguese started their expansion in Morocco, by taking Ceuta in 1415, Tangier was always a primary goal. They failed to capture the city in 1437 but finally occupied it in 1471. The Portuguese rule lasted until 1661, when it was given to Charles II of England.
In 1679, Sultan of Morocco made an unsuccessful attempt to seize the town but imposed a crippling blockade which ultimately forced the English to withdraw. The English destroyed the town and its port facilities prior to their departure in 1684. The city was reconstructed to some extent, but it gradually declined until 1810.
The United States dedicated its first consulate in Tangier during the George Washington administration. In 1821, the Legation Building in Tangier became the first piece of property acquired abroad by the U.S. government, a gift to the U.S. from Sultan Moulay Suliman.
Tangier's geographic location made it a centre for European diplomatic and commercial rivalry in Morocco in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The city was increasingly coming under French influence, and it was here in 1905 that Kaiser Wilhelm II triggered an international crisis that almost led to war between his country and France by pronouncing himself in favour of Morocco's continued independence.
In 1912, Morocco was effectively partitioned between France and Spain. Tangier was made an international zone in 1923 under the joint administration of France, Spain, and Britain, joined by Italy, Portugal and Belgium in 1928. In the 1940s and until 1956 when the city was an International Zone, the city served as a playground for eccentric millionaires, a meeting place for secret agents and all kinds of crooks, and a mecca for speculators and gamblers. Tangier joined with the rest of Morocco following the restoration of full sovereignty in 1956.
Walking is the best way to see the relatively compact Tangier. The Medina area is a complex array of alleyways some of which can only be accessed on foot. Tourism is a major source of revenue, though the traveler beware, expect to be intimidated and followed for being the outsider. Though in general it is a safe place, single travelers are more at risk of falling into situations which can be frightening.
Though I only spent a few nights in Tangier, it was enough to say it wasn't the sort of place I felt comfortable, watching over my back often and hassled by the many vendors and street guides looking to show you the way. Its not the sort of place I plan to visit again.
Tangier is a short distance from southern Spain and Gibraltar, and good trip to take if your near and brave enough to do so.
Photos of Tangier 1994 © Joe Mendonca