“The City of Dreaming Spires”. A city, and the county town of Oxfordshire, in South East England. The city, made prominent by its medieval university, the oldest university in the English-speaking world.

Buildings in Oxford demonstrate an example of every British architectural period since the arrival of the Saxons, including the iconic, mid-18th century Radcliffe Camera. Oxford is the oldest university city in England. Together with Cambridge (the second oldest university city and Oxford's great rival), Oxford has long represented the English academic establishment and élite, a haven of tradition and endeavour. Oxford's famous “Dreaming Spires” refer to the medieval churches and colleges that dominate the bustling modern town in all their Gothic splendour.

First occupied in Saxon times, it was initially known as “Oxanforda”. The settlement began with the foundations of St Frideswide's nunnery in the 8th century, and was first mentioned in written records in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle for the year 912. By the 10th century Oxford had become an important military frontier town between the kingdoms of Mercia and Wessex and was on several occasions raided by the Danes.

The University of Oxford was founded in the 12th century and therefore constitutes the oldest English-speaking university. Oxford, like Cambridge, differs from many other universities in that there is no 'campus' as such, and no central university building. Instead, the University consists of approximately 40 colleges and associated buildings, such as the Exam Schools, the world-famous Bodleian Library and several world-class museums. Each college has its own individual character, some date from the 13th century, others are merely a few decades old. Many of the colleges are closed to the public, particularly during term times, some are open at different times.

Christ Church Cathedral is unique as a college chapel and cathedral in one foundation. Originally the Priory Church of St Frideswide, the building was extended and incorporated into the structure of the Cardinal's College shortly before its refounding as Christ Church in 1546, since which time it has functioned as the cathedral of the Diocese of Oxford.

The Oxford Martyrs were tried for heresy in 1555 and subsequently burnt at the stake, on what is now Broad Street, for their religious beliefs and teachings. The three martyrs were the bishops Hugh Latimer and Nicholas Ridley, and the Archbishop Thomas Cranmer. The Martyrs' Memorial stands nearby, round the corner to the North on St. Giles. During the English Civil War, Oxford housed the court of Charles I in 1642, after the king was expelled from London, although there was strong support in the town for the Parliamentarian cause. The town yielded to Parliamentarian forces under General Fairfax in the Siege of Oxford of 1646. It later housed the court of Charles II during the Great Plague of London in 1665–66. Although reluctant to do so, he was forced to evacuate when the plague got too close.

In 1790, the Oxford Canal connected the city with Coventry. The Duke's Cut was completed by the Duke of Marlborough in 1789 to link the new canal with the River Thames; and in 1796 the Oxford Canal company built their own link to the Thames, at Isis Lock. In 1844, the Great Western Railway linked Oxford with London via Didcot and Reading, and other rail routes soon followed. In the 19th century, the controversy surrounding the Oxford Movement in the Anglican Church drew attention to the city as a focus of theological thought.

Oxford's Town Hall was built by Henry T. Hare, the foundation stone was laid on 6 July 1893 and opened by the future King Edward VII on 12 May 1897. The site has been the seat of local government since the Guild Hall of 1292 and though Oxford is a city and a Lord Mayoralty, it is still called by its traditional name of “Town Hall”.

By the early 20th century, Oxford was experiencing rapid industrial and population growth, with the printing and publishing industries becoming well established by the 1920s. Also during that decade, the economy and society of Oxford underwent a huge transformation as William Morris established the Morris Motor Company to mass produce cars in Cowley, on the south-eastern edge of the city. The influx of migrant labour to the car plants and hospitals, recent immigration from south Asia, and a large student population, have given Oxford a notable cosmopolitan character, especially in the Headington and Cowley Road areas with their many bars, cafes, restaurants, clubs, ethnic shops and fast food outlets. Oxford is one of the most diverse small cities in Britain.

Oxford has numerous major tourist attractions, many belonging to the university and colleges. As well as several famous institutions, the town centre is home to Carfax Tower and the University Church of St Mary the Virgin, both of which offer views over the spires of the city. Many tourists shop at the historic Covered Market. In the summer punting on the Thames/Isis and the Cherwell is popular.

The University of Oxford is one of the most famous universities in the world, and leading academics come to Oxford from all over the world. As well as being a major draw for tourists, Oxford city centre contains many shops, several theatres, and an ice rink. The historical buildings make this location a popular target for film and TV crews. The city centre is relatively small, and is centred on Carfax, Oxford, a cross-roads on which a clocktower stands, and which forms the junction of Cornmarket Street (pedestrianised), Queen Street (semi-pedestrianised), St Aldate's and The High. Cornmarket Street and Queen Street are home to Oxford's various chain stores, as well as a small number of independent retailers, one of the longest established of which is Boswells, which was founded in 1738.

Landmarks

Bodleian Library. The main research library of the University of Oxford, The Bodleian is one of the oldest libraries in Europe (opened in 1602, based on the collection of Thomas Bodley), and in the UK is second in size only to London's British Library. The Bodleian now possesses numerous branches throughout the university; visiting bibliophiles will be most keen to peruse the central site, which includes Duke Humfrey's Library above the Divinity School, the Old Schools Quadrangle with its Great Gate and Tower, the Radcliffe Camera, Britain’s first circular library, and the Clarendon Building.
Radcliffe Camera, Radcliffe Square, built 1737-1749, the round Camera functions as a reading room for Oxford students and so is not generally accessible. The grand exterior, however, is well worth viewing.
Hertford Bridge (Bridge of Sighs). A quaint pedestrian bridge for the students of Hertford College which has popularly become known as the "Bridge of Sighs" of Oxford.
Sheldonian Theatre, Broad Street. This unusual building was Sir Christopher Wren's first major architectural commission. At the time he was a Professor of Astronomy at the University. There is a series of busts outside the theatre facing Broad St with strange expressions and facial hair.
Taylorian Institute (also known as The Taylor Institution), established in 1845 and is the University's centre for the study of modern European languages and literature. Its library contains the largest specialist collection in its field in Britain. It is in a neo-classical building designed by Charles R. Cockerell and erected between 1841 and 1844 by the University to house the Institution and the Randolph Galleries (now the Ashmolean Museum).
University Church of St Mary the Virgin, some of the best views of Oxford are afforded from the tower of the church, dating to 1280. The church itself, rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries, is full of architectural and historical interest. The church has a coffee shop, "The Vaults and Garden".

Many Oxford colleges allow tourists to visit their grounds during certain hours and certain seasons, although some are closed to tourists at all times. Keep in mind that those that are open will generally prevent tourist access during certain times of the year, especially during University terms. Each college has a unique history and something interesting to offer in terms of striking architecture or historical notoriety.
Balliol, University, and Merton Colleges each claim to be the 'oldest' in the University, with founding dates in the 13th century, although the exact year may unclear or contested. They are fine examples of the collegiate Gothic architecture for which Oxford is renowned.
Exeter College is an example of one of Oxford' smaller colleges. Built in 1314, it is also one of the oldest and in its front quad exemplifies collegiate architecture in Oxford. The Victorian neo-gothic. chapel is modelled on the Sainte Chapelle in Paris, and houses 'The Adoration of the Magi': the famous pre-Raphaelite tapestry by William Morris. The Fellows' Garden neighbours the Divinity School and the Bodleian Library and offers one of the best views in Oxford, over Radcliffe Sqaure.
New College on Holywell Street is interesting for being the only college to be built straddling the ancient city wall, which cuts through the center of the grounds.
The Queens' College along High Street, founded in 1341, is renowned for its grand 18th century Classical style architecture for which is unique among the ancient (medieval) colleges, which have otherwise each been rebuilt or expanded over the years in a largely Gothic or neo-Gothic style. Tourists are not admitted to this college.
All Souls, also along High Street, is famous not only for its striking towers, but also in that it does not accept undergraduate members, but rather elects only a two graduate fellows each year based upon their performance in what has been described as the 'hardest exam in the world'.

Finally, two colleges (some of the largest and most famous in Oxford) that have somewhat established themselves as tourist destinations are Magdalen and Christ Church. You're as likely to see a tourist inside as a student, but they do offer regular visiting hours, tourist facilities, meticulously manicured and beautiful grounds, and ticket booths for charging admissions fees.
Christ Church, . The college of Brideshead Revisited fame, Christ Church is an Early Modern period college founded in 1525 by Cardinal Wolsey as “Cardinal College”. Noted for associations with Lewis Carroll (Alice in Wonderland) and was a location for the filming of the first Harry Potter film. The Christ Church Meadows south of the college is a beautiful green space offering nice views of the spires and quiet corners to relax.
Magdalen College, founded in 1458 by William of Waynflete, Bishop of Winchester, Magdalen is frequently the first college seen by many visitors if coming into Oxford on the London Road, its high tower serving as a much-loved landmark. Significant Magdalen alumni include CS Lewis, Oscar Wilde, Seamus Heaney and Edward Gibbon.

Museums and Galleries

The Ashmolean Museum, vast, impressive, and recently undergone major redevelopment, the Ashmolean is Britain's oldest public museum, having been founded in 1683. The museum displays ancient art from Egypt, the Near East, Greece and Rome, a fine collection of Western art and artifacts and a sizable Eastern Art collection. Highlights include the Amarna Princess Fresco and the Alfred Jewel.
Natural History Museum, houses the University's scientific collections of zoological, entomological, geological, palaeontological and mineralogical specimens, accumulated in the course of the last 3 centuries. The exhibits occupy a large central court with elegant Victorian cast-iron columns supporting the great glass roof, and surrounded on four sides by upper and lower arcades. They are devoted to the history and diversity of life on Earth and the rocks and minerals that form it. Highlights include the famous Oxford Dodo, the largest display of dinosaur remains outside London, a great collection of skeletons, and the nesting swifts in the Museum's main tower.
Pitt Rivers Museum, Oxford's museum of anthropology and ethnology, still largely arranged in Victorian style, making this a rare museum experience. The Pitt Rivers requires time and effort but gives great satisfaction. Look out for the shrunken heads!
Museum of Oxford, tells the tale of the growth of the city and University.
Christ Church Picture Gallery, houses an internationally renowned collection of Old Master paintings and drawings – some 300 paintings and almost 2000 drawings. The paintings include works by Carracci, Tintoretto, Filippino Lippi, Van Dyck and Frans Hals. Christ Church’s collection of Old Masters drawings is one of the most important in the country and includes work by major artists such as Leonardo, Raphael, Michelangelo, Durer and Rubens. For reasons of space and conservation, it is not possible to show the entire collection but a selection of drawings is always on view.
Museum of the History of Science, houses an unrivaled collection of early scientific instruments. The Old Ashmolean building is the world's oldest surviving museum-purpose building. It is a department of Oxford University as well as a public museum.

Oxford is small enough to explore in a single day, a train from London takes approximately one hour, booking your tickets in advance and online could give you huge savings (see travel by train). From the train station its only a short walk to all the popular sites and parks. Its a great break from the busy and hectic city life of London. Many of Oxford University's colleges have parks and gardens to walk through that are open to the public.

Photos of Oxford 2010 © Joe Mendonca